FAQ
All together the average timeline is about a month to a month and a half, give or take. The
length of time it takes to get the roofing permit issued by the city/county jurisdiction can cause
the timeline to vary by a few weeks. The full process includes 5 parts as listed below:
– Site Survey: Initial Site Inspection (1-3 Days) Our team verifies site conditions, takes
photos and detailed measurements, and assesses other environmental dynamics, if
needed.
– Project Acceptance and Notice to Proceed (2-4 Days) After the project has been verified,
the finance company reviews the file and grants Notice to Proceed (NTP) with the
project. ESP will review the site survey report and confirm that the roofing installation is
possible.
– Permit: Municipality Building Department Approval (3-14 Days) Final drawings are
submitted to your local municipality’s building and construction safety departments.
Many cities review and approve plans the same day, or in a few days, but some cities
can take weeks. Similarly, utility submittal and approval processes and timelines vary.
Note that any open permit, code enforcement ticket or any issues concerning
unpermitted structures on the property site will cause your local municipality to put a hold
on the roofing permit. When starting a project, please ensure that all open permits
requests you may have with your local municipalities are closed out so we can get to
work promptly for you.
– Install: Delivery & Setup of Roofing Materials (3-14 Days) Once approvals are received,
your project manager will call to schedule the delivery and set-up of your new roof. The
on-site work will typically take about one to three days, depending on the roof size and
other conditions. Our crews are trained, licensed and bonded, technically skilled, and
highly experienced.
– Inspection: Municipality Inspections & Signoffs (1-3 Weeks) The local municipality needs
to approve our handiwork. Your project manager will call and arrange a time to have an
inspector from the local municipality come out to review your roof. This may take more
than one inspection, in the event that adjustments are required.
Yes. This is a fairly substantial construction project that includes demolition (removal of the
old roofing material) and possibly some work changing out any rotten or damaged wood, and
then installing a completely new roofing system. This will mean saws, nail guns, hammering,
and other tools that are very noisy. We will schedule with you so you know what day we’re
showing up. We often start pretty early in the morning but will always alert you when we arrive
on site.
Yes. When the old roofing material is torn off and removed, it will cause dust and debris to
come down into the attic (or garage) and around the perimeter of the home. It is important to
note that preparation and cleanup is required for all jobs, and it is the homeowner’s
responsibility to inform the roofers of any especially sensitive areas accordingly so they can
assist the homeowner in preparations. Roofers can’t control gravity; dust and debris will come
through the roof sheathing into the attic and garage areas. Homes with skip sheathing and
wood shake will have large amounts of dust and debris that comes through, because half of the
roof sheathing is missing when we start. So, what can you as the homeowner do? The roofers
can supply large rolls of plastic to cover anything delicate. The best course of action is to:
– Remove all cars from the garage and anything else delicate. Then inform the roofer
before they start if there are any items that cannot be removed that need to be covered
with plastic and the roofer can provide you with plastic to cover those items.
– Remove any delicate items from the attic and cover . Then inform the roofer before the
start if there are things that cannot be removed that need to be covered with plastic and
the roofer can provide you with plastic to cover those items.
– Remove any delicate items from the perimeter of the house (within 15 feet of the home).
Then inform the roofer before the start if there are things that cannot be removed that
need to be covered with plastic and the roofer can provide you with plastic to cover
those items.
The roofers will clean up the outside and perimeter of the home but they do not do any interior
cleaning inside the attic or the garage. This is why covering with plastic and preparation is so
important.
Yes. Once the old roofing is removed the wood will be inspected by the city inspector to
make sure all the damaged/rotten wood is replaced. Not all stained or “ugly” wood is bad. If it
can hold a nail it is suitable to be used. All rotten/damaged wood will be replaced by the roofer
at an additional charge per sheet of plywood and per linear foot of dimensional lumber like 1×6
or 2×8. The ESP Roofing department typically will be able to cover the cost of these change
orders as a courtesy if the amount is not too large. However if the cost of the change order is
over what ESP Roofing can cover, then ESP Roofing will cover whatever costs they can and the
rest will be added to the job and the sales rep will present the homeowner with a new
agreement amended with those costs accordingly. It is important to note that wood replacement
amounts cannot be known until the old roofing material is fully removed and accounted for at
completion, so those costs are not included in the roof quote up front.
Yes. Per code and manufacturer installation guidelines for all tile and shingle roofs, the nails
must penetrate through the wood sheathing and poke through the inside to have the proper
wind rating and strength of hold for the roofing material. So if you see nails poking through the
wood sheathing of your roof inside your attic, this is not anything to worry about – it actually
means that the roof was installed correctly and has the proper wind rating because the correct
length of nails were used.
Additionally, if new plywood is installed, there will also be larger framing nails that you may see.
Just like with roof mounting nails, these are also required by code when new plywood sheathing
is installed. The framing nails go into the rafters but are also required in the “Field” which is the
space in between the rafters. So don't worry, it is perfectly normal and to be expected to have
nails poking through inside the attic.
This is the product ESP Roofing can install as a custom upgrade: https://low-
e.com/products/low-e-thermasheet/ Otherwise no. ESP Roofing does not do attic
insulation (anything with an R value), does not install rigid ISO foam insulation sheets
underneath the roofing material, and does install reflective insulation (anything that is not R
value but offers a “thermal break”).
Our roofers can remove and dispose of the system, but cannot reinstall it. Homeowners who
want to keep their solar thermal systems will need to have their own contractor remove and
reinstall it if they want to keep it. The reason for this is thermal systems generally involve
plumbing, and we are purely electrical contractors. Please ensure lots of communication and
coordination if this is the case, so that we can work with the chosen contractor and not
accidentally dispose of the thermal system if you want it reinstalled after the re-roof.
Yes, we just have to make sure we only end on hips, ridges, eaves and rakes. We cannot
end in a valley.
Yes, we just have to make sure we only end on hips, ridges, eaves and rakes. We cannot
end in a valley.
Yes, but only with a reroof. A roof like this can have a maximum of 600 pounds per 100
square feet and each layer of shingles is approx. 220 pounds. Three layers of shingles on the
roof are overweight. Part of the plan set that we submit for the solar permit is the structural plan
set that the city uses to make sure that the roof can support the weight of solar on the roof.
Solar weighs less than a layer of roofing so usually it is okay. However when the roof on it's
own is overweight before we add solar we have no choice but to re-roof to bring the weight
down otherwise the permit would never be approved and we would never pass inspection by the
city.
First you must accept one of the roof options and likely will need to re-sign documents. After
docs are signed it can take up to 2-3 days to get NTP from the lender so that we can proceed
and complete acceptance.
– Once the job is accepted it goes through Design. The design process takes 2-3 days.
– Once design is complete the job goes to Permitting. Once it is in permit status, it is also in the
roof scheduling queue, and within about a week the roofer will get the work order and contact
the homeowner to confirm things like color and start date. While some jurisdictions may be as
fast as same day, it can take 1-2 weeks to get the roof permit, so the time from the job going
into permit status to the date the roof work starts is typically 2-3 weeks total. It takes about a
week to complete the roof work and close out the work order and then it goes to PV install
scheduling.
– PV installation is usually scheduled to start about 1-2 weeks after the roof is completed.
– Overall, from the day you get new docs signed to the day the roof starts is approx. 2-4 weeks,
and 1-2 weeks after that for the solar install to begin, so a total of 1-1.5 months from start to
finish in most circumstances barring any unforeseen delays.
Yes! Roof work done by ESP has a Limited Lifetime warranty on materials, and a 10-year
warranty on workmanship.
Usually no, unless there are multiple layers. Please see the code below for reference.
Asphalt Shingles
Minimum Roof Slope (Roof Pitch) | R905.2.2
Asphalt shingles can only be installed on roof slopes of 2:12 or greater. This means for every 12
horizontal units, the roof must rise a minimum of 2 vertical units.
Also if Asphalt shingles are installed on a roof slope of 2:12 to 4:12, it shall be provided with a
double underlayment application.
Modified Bitumen Roofing
Minimum Roof Slope (Roof Pitch) | R905.11.1
Modified bitumen membrane roofs must have a design roof slope of 1/4:12 or greater (2%
slope). This means for every 12 horizontal units, the roof must rise a minimum of one-fourth
vertical unit.
There are two types of concrete tile and they both look exactly the same. There is the
standard weight (10-13 pounds per tile) and lightweight (about 6-8 lbs. per tile). There is no
difference in how they look. The lightweight tiles are simply thinner and designed to go on
homes that were not built for tile (originally had shingles or wood shake). Those tiles are too
fragile to install on and we have to do the comp-out to make the job viable.
We install on concrete tile that is standard weight all the time. But when it is lightweight we
must do the comp-out. Otherwise, the tile hooks (mounting brackets) will crack the tiles with
any movement from wind or settling.
There are fees depending on how far into the process we have worked. If we have only
conducted a site survey, there is no charge as a courtesy up to that point. If we have incurred
any Design & Engineering costs or submitted for Permitting there will be fees associated with
those costs, which will not exceed $1500 prior to roofing installation. After installation has begun
a project cannot be cancelled.